Cedar Hedging Planting and Care Guide for BC

OVERVIEW

Cedar hedging is one of the most popular choices for creating a dense, year-round privacy screen in BC gardens. The cedars used for hedging are selected cultivars of Eastern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) and compact forms of Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata), chosen because they stay tight, dense, and manageable. With the right preparation, planting, and care, a cedar hedge will provide decades of beauty, privacy, and wildlife habitat.

'Smaragd' (Emerald Green)

Thuja occidentalis 'Smaragd'

•     Most widely planted hedging cedar at Gardenworks locations

•     Narrow, columnar form; rich emerald-green colour held through winter

•     Slow to moderate growth: 15-20 cm/year; reaches 3-4 m at maturity

•     Hardy to Zone 3; ideal for formal hedges and tight spaces

'Excelsa'

Thuja plicata 'Excelsa'

•     Compact, hedging-specific cultivar of Western Red Cedar

•     Bright, feathery green foliage; faster growing: 30-45 cm/year

•     Reaches 4-6 m as a managed hedge

•     Best suited to BC's South Coast (Zones 6-9); go-to for taller screens in the Lower Mainland and Vancouver Island

'Steeplechase'

Thuja plicata 'Steeplechase'

•     Newer, improved compact Western Red Cedar selection

•     Faster and more vigorous than 'Smaragd'; excellent density

•     More resistant to winter bronzing than some other varieties

•     Popular choice for quicker screens on the South Coast

'Brandon'

Thuja occidentalis 'Brandon'

•     Upright, pyramidal Eastern White Cedar; very cold-hardy

•     Handles exposed and windy sites well

•     Medium growth rate; slightly softer texture than 'Smaragd'

•     Good choice for colder inland sites

WHICH VARIETY SHOULD I CHOOSE?

South Coast (Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island, Sunshine Coast): 'Excelsa' or 'Steeplechase' for faster, taller screens; 'Smaragd' for formal, narrower hedges and tighter spaces.

Ask our staff for current availability at your nearest location.

PENTICTON & OKANAGAN: ALTERNATIVES TO CEDAR

Cedar hedging is generally not recommended for the Penticton and Okanagan region due to high summer water demands, fire risk when dry, and significant deer pressure on new plantings.

Better-suited alternatives for privacy hedging in this region include:

•     Junipers (Juniperus scopulorum) - drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and fire-smart

•     Leyland Cypress (x Cuprocyparis leylandii) - fast-growing and better adapted to drier, hotter conditions

Speak with a member of our Penticton team for the best recommendation for your specific site.

SOUTH COAST TIP

Avoid planting at the base of a slope or any area where standing water is visible after heavy rain. Even clay-heavy soils can be made workable by mounding the planting bed 15-20 cm above the surrounding grade. This simple step dramatically improves drainage and root-zone health.

AVOID OVER-AMENDING

Do not fill the planting hole with pure compost or premium garden mix. This creates a rich pocket that roots are reluctant to leave, resulting in poor anchorage and reduced drought resilience. Always blend 2/3 native soil with 1/3 amendment.

SPACING GUIDE

'Excelsa' and 'Steeplechase': 60-90 cm apart (centre to centre) for solid coverage within 3-5 years

'Smaragd' and 'Brandon': 50-60 cm spacing, appropriate for their narrower habit

Double-row hedge for maximum density: two staggered rows 60 cm apart, plants spaced 90 cm within each row

BEST PLANTING TIMES

Early spring (March-April) and fall (September-October) are ideal. Mild temperatures and natural rainfall ease the establishment burden. Summer planting is possible but requires watering every 2-3 days and is best avoided in July and August.

FIRESMART BC MULCHING TIP

Keep a 1.5 m non-combustible zone immediately around your home: no bark mulch, wood chips, or organic materials against your foundation, deck, or attached structures.

Within 1-10 m of your home: use gravel mulch or crushed rock to suppress weeds while reducing fire risk.

Beyond 10 m: standard wood chip or bark mulch is appropriate. Mature compost is the most FireSmart organic option for the intermediate zone.

For more information, visit firesmartbc.ca/landscaping-hub

OVER-WATERING IS ALSO HARMFUL

Water pooling under a cedar hedge, particularly from uphill lawn irrigation running continuously onto the root zone, can cause root death from oxygen deprivation. If your hedge is downhill from a timed lawn sprinkler system, review the schedule to ensure roots are not constantly saturated.

YELLOWING FOLIAGE: A NUTRIENT CLUE

Yellow-green foliage may indicate nitrogen deficiency, poor drainage, or soil pH imbalance

Test soil pH before applying more fertilizer: in alkaline soil, nutrients may be present but unavailable to the plant

A soil acidifier or chelated micronutrient spray may be needed alongside regular feeding

TRIMMING TIP

Never cut back into old, brown, leafless wood: cedars will not regenerate foliage from bare wood

Always leave some green foliage on every branch you cut

Remove no more than one-third of the current year's green growth per session

Sharp blades make a real difference: ragged cuts from dull blades heal slowly and look untidy

Season

Key Tasks

Early Spring (Feb-Mar)

•     Apply GARDENWORKS Tree & Shrub Food 18-4-8

•     Refresh mulch layer (keep 10 cm clear of trunk)

•     Inspect for winter damage

•     Begin watering if dry spell arrives early

Spring (Apr-May)

•     First trim in late May once new growth has hardened

•     Water regularly if dry

•     Second fertilizer application in early June

Summer (Jun-Aug)

•     Water deeply 2-3 times per week during dry periods

•     Monitor for spider mites in hot weather

•     Watch for flagging (normal) vs. true die-back

Fall (Sep-Oct)

•     Optional second trim in late August

•     Reduce watering as temperatures cool

•     Top up mulch before winter rains

•     No fertilizing after July

Winter (Nov-Jan)

•     Minimal care needed

•     Some foliage bronzing is normal; greens up in spring

•     Shake heavy snow off branches gently to prevent splitting

FLAGGING

In late summer and autumn, cedars shed clusters of older inner foliage that turn orange-brown before dropping. This affects only interior foliage; growing tips remain green and healthy. No action is needed. It is especially visible on Thuja plicata cultivars in hot, dry years.

WINTER BRONZING

Many cedar varieties take on a bronze or dull-green tint through the coldest winter months. This is a natural response to cold and low light, not a sign of damage. Foliage returns to its bright characteristic colour in late February and March.

WHEN TO BE CONCERNED

Browning that progresses outward from branch tips through spring and summer, or that affects entire sections of the hedge, is more likely drought stress, root rot, or canker disease. Check the root zone for drainage issues and inspect branch bases for cankers (sunken, discoloured bark). Bring a photo to your local Gardenworks for advice.

Deer Browsing

•     A significant threat in many BC areas including North and West Vancouver, Saanich, Oak Bay, Nanaimo, Courtenay, and surrounding Penticton

•     Deer browse soft new growth readily, especially in late autumn and winter

•     Install temporary wire mesh or deer netting for the first 2-3 years

•     Apply deer repellent sprays monthly, reapplied after rain

•     Once hedges reach 2 m, pressure on upper growth diminishes significantly

Salt Spray & Roadside Sites

•     Foliage burn from salt accumulation can affect cedars within 100-200 m of exposed shoreline or alongside heavily salted roads

•     'Smaragd' handles salt somewhat better than Thuja plicata cultivars

•     Deep watering in spring helps flush residual road salt from the root zone

•     Consider Leyland Cypress for particularly exposed oceanfront positions

Overhead & Root Competition

•     Cedars planted near large established trees (particularly maples and alders) can struggle due to root competition and shading

•     Increase watering frequency and apply slow-release fertilizer each spring to compensate

•     Avoid planting directly under a dense tree canopy

Spider Mites in Hot Weather

•     Look for fine webbing on foliage and a stippled, bronzed appearance during hot, dry summers

•     A firm blast of water from a hose knocks populations back effectively

•     Avoid overhead irrigation in the evening

•     Beneficial insects manage mite populations well in a healthy garden

Brown patches mid-hedge

•     Check soil moisture at 15-20 cm depth

•     If dry: increase watering frequency

•     If wet and soggy: address drainage

•     If only inner foliage in autumn: almost certainly normal flagging

Bare, thin base

•     Caused by insufficient light reaching lower foliage due to over-wide top, or trimming into bare wood

•     Taper narrower at the top from day one

•     Once bare, will not regrow; consider underplanting with shade-tolerant groundcovers

Yellowing foliage

•     Check drainage first: it is the most common cause

•     If drainage is adequate, apply evergreen fertilizer and test soil pH

•     Spring yellowing that greens up by June is often cold-season stress

Leaning or tilting

•     Usually wind rock on newly planted, shallow-rooted trees

•     Stake new cedars in exposed sites for the first year

•     Ensure watering is even along the full hedge length

Deer damage

•     Ragged, chewed growth at accessible heights (typically up to 1.5 m)

•     Install deer netting or wire mesh immediately

•     Apply deer repellent sprays monthly

Slow establishment / dieback

•     Check root flare is at or just above soil level

•     Increase watering frequency

•     If multiple plants declining simultaneously, assess drainage: root rot from waterlogging is the most common cause of whole-hedge failure